Ryan Lo ‘I Love Me!’
Returning to presentation format, Ryan Lo showed off a special collection of his greatest hits against the powder puff pink gallery of restaurant Sketch, “It is simply about what I love to do!”, explains Lo.
Celebrating his signature styles, the presentation showed off the designer’s creative use of various fabrications, from tactile knitted tulle worked into A-line princess frocks and lace made up into chevron striped candy floss nightgowns. Also spotted was jacquard woven with silver butterflies on trench coats and puff-sleeved Victorian-inspired dressed.
Dominated by black and white, there were also pops of pastel shades, as well as bright pink, with the designer’s ongoing collaboration with milliner Stephen Jones, showcasing Yayoi Kusama-inspired pumpkin berets in a glitter candy palette.
Highlights had to be the rainbow tulle maxi dress, the handmade flower embellishments and beading detailing on the pussy bow blouses, and Lo’s little black dresses of ruffled tulle and polka dots.
Taking inspiration from the magic behind Grimm’s fairy tales, the Markus Lupfer girl continues to break the rules for autumn/winter 2018, with texture and colour built up, piled on, as she “wraps herself in luxury and fantasy” the show notes reveal, paying homage to a girl “who adores the eclectic, but wears it with elegance”.
Featuring deconstructed dresses and sharp tailoring, Marcus Lupfer is looking to provide his customers with an effortless fashion formula that’s part luxurious fantasy, part pared-back reality, with that added sparkle that the designer is known for. The ready-to-wear continues to develop, with ruffled-edge lace blouses paired with faux fur, while his signature jumpers have been reimagined with fawns, foxes and owls brought to life in sequins hand threaded on.
Other highlights included heavier knits in Scottish lambswool that have been patched with faux fur in toffee brown on chestnut, sage on army green down the front or across the cuffs adding a utilitarian feel, which looked great clashing as well as matching.
Prints continued strongly this season as well, with his hand painted prints adding depth, especially the woodland print worn against lumberjack checks, and of course, it wouldn’t be a Marcus Lupfer collection without floral embroidery that was seen over lace dresses and across devore skirts.
Shrimps ‘The Romance Collection’
Johnstons of Elgin
The Scottish heritage brand Johnstons of Elgin hosted its first presentation at London Fashion Week this season, under the creative direction of Alan Scott, who referenced the archives of the 220-year-old cashmere brand for its debut fashion week collection. He added that the collection “marks a new chapter for the brand as it brings its wealth of textile expertise into the luxury arena”.
Featuring 15 womenswear and 5 menswear looks, Johnstons of Elgin was inspired by the brand’s archive and its pioneering history in textiles, by placing cashmere as the focus of the ready-to-wear and accessories, as well as showcasing the brand’s unique and innovative vertical weaving process from fibre, sourced from Afghanistan, Australia, Mongolia and Peru to garment.
The women’s collection offered sculptural and ethereal themes, with linear silhouettes in matte double-face cashmere in black, natural and camel, alongside elegant tailoring, and super soft cashmere statement pieces with exaggerated textures, in neutral tones with flashes of bold colour. Highlights included a double-faced wool and cashmere peacoat paired with a yellow rollneck, grey cashmere joggers and a red tartan scarf, and an electric blue collarless coat.
The menswear, however, was more functional with a tougher vision that was more of a luxury sportswear vibe, including soft cashmere coats, waxed jackets, and a grey suit paired with a bright yellow rollneck.